Wind, ice, and long winters are hard on Ohio trees. When a limb hangs over the roof or a trunk leans toward a driveway, the priority is safety—yours, your neighbors’, and your property’s. Use this practical checklist to decide what you can handle, when to call a crew, and how to protect patios, lawns, and drainage while the work gets done.
1) First decision: DIY or call a pro?
- Call a professional if the tree is near power lines or structures; if the trunk is cracked or split; or if climbing/rigging is required.
- DIY is only reasonable for small, low limbs with clear drop zones and no utilities nearby. When in doubt, don’t guess.
2) One-minute hazard scan
- Leaning or shifting trunk (fresh soil heave on one side = unstable root plate).
- Cracks, lightning scars, fungal conks (decay = unpredictable failure).
- Tangled canopy over roofs, sheds, or vehicles.
- Load paths over patios, walkways, or drives (plan protection; see Section 5).
- Wind direction and escape routes for anyone on the ground.
3) Timing and weather matter
- Avoid high-wind days; gusts make cuts unpredictable.
- Frozen ground reduces ruts but increases slip risk—use mats or plywood.
- After storms, assume limbs are tensioned; never cut blindly into loaded wood.
4) Set the work zone (even if you’re hiring it out)
- Mark a no-go perimeter with cones or tape.
- Clear two escape paths at 45° angles away from the fall line.
- Assign a spotter—eyes up, no phones.
- Keep kids and pets inside until cleanup is complete.
5) Protect patios, lawns, and drainage
- Lay mats or plywood over turf to prevent ruts.
- Cover paver borders with moving blankets + plywood to avoid chipped edges.
- Keep drainage inlets and basins clear of sawdust, bark, and leaves; clogged drains become puddles (and ice) later.
6) Cutting principles (high level, not a tutorial)
- Tension vs. compression: wood can spring or pinch—make relief cuts and stay out of rebound paths.
- Bar control: if you’re not completely confident with kickback zones and chain brake, stop.
- Rigging changes physics: ropes, blocks, and friction devices reduce impact but require training. Complex removals belong to a crew.
7) Cleanup that actually finishes the job
- Stump plan: flush cut vs. grinding; grinding lets you replant or add small walls/edges later.
- Chip management: chips make great paths or mulch—just keep them out of drains and paver joints.
- Surface check: sweep patios, blow joint-sand debris off hardscapes, and reseat any shifted border spikes.
8) Re-use the space wisely
- Turning a hazard into an upgrade is the win. Consider a sunny bed, a seating nook, or an expanded patio where the tree stood. If roots disrupted grading, fix grade and water flow before you build anything new.
9) How to choose a professional (fast vetting list)
- Proof of insurance (liability + workers’ comp).
- Written scope: what’s removed, what’s left, stump plan, and site protection.
- Equipment plan (climbing vs. bucket vs. crane) and how they’ll protect turf, patios, and drains.
- Cleanup standard—your yard should look better, not battered.
- Local references in Lebanon, Morrow, Mainville, or Liberty Township.
10) When it’s beyond “tree work”
- If removal reveals pooling near the foundation, eroded beds, or a settling patio, sequence fixes in order: water management first, then hardscape repairs or additions, then planting. A dependable Lebanon landscaping company can handle the full plan so you’re not juggling contractors.
Bottom line
Tree safety is about preparation, not heroics. If there’s any doubt about proximity to homes, lines, or public ways, bring in a crew for the removal and protect your investment in patios, walls, and drainage at the same time.